When repairing icemakers it is necessary to understand how much ice the icemaker should produce. When every 1-2 hours An icemaker that dumps once an hour has strong icemaker production and an icemaker that dispose as soon as every 2 hours is still acceptable however weak, icemakers normally dump. So in 24 hours, the icemaker should make approximately 80-175 cubes.
Generally it will certainly take 24-48 hours for an icemaker bin to fill and longer if the fridge is just starting up. If your icemaker is producing ice but slowly, the first thing to check before going through troubleshooting steps offered on this page is the temperature level in the freezer.
Prior to you proceed in fixing your icemaker, take note of the temperature inside the fridge, it must be in between 0-10 degrees in the freezer and 34-40 in the fresh food area because this will significantly impact the performance of the icemaker. If you have a thermometer to examine temperature just see to it all the food appears to be frozen and everything in the fridge appears to be cold and if you are not sure, buy a thermometer.
Whirlpool Icemaker No Ice
This section of the whirlpool icemaker repair guide I will stroll you through the steps in a whirlpool icemaker not making ice. First thing you should check is the feeler arm (not on designs with the ice bin mounted on the freezer door). The feeler arm is the metal wire that stops the icemaker when the ice-bin gets full. Occasionally this feeler arm will jump out of the hole on the back of the head of the icemaker so that it will certainly lift up and pull back when the icemaker cycles. Place it back and your issue need to be repaired if it is out of the hole.
The majority of Whirlpool icemakers have a motor modular mounted on the front of the icemaker with holes significant V, L, H, N, m and t. These are test points to make Whirlpool icemaker repair simple. To access this modular just eliminate the cover off the front of the icemaker, note that on some side-by-side fridges the icemaker is mounted sideways and you need to take the icemaker loose to get rid of the cover. To inspect this icemaker you will certainly need to make a jumper wire. Take a six-inch piece of insulted wire and skin about 1/2 inch on each end. Now before you proceed, look in the ice mold (where the ice forms). Is there any ice in it?
If there is ice in the mold take that jumper wire and place one end in the hole marked T and the other end in the hole marked H for about 15 seconds then remove it. If when you do this the icemaker dumps the ice in the mold and the feeler arm raises up then pull back, the thermostat inside the icemaker is bad (supplied the temperature in the freezer is ok). If the thermostat is bad, keep in mind that I recommend altering the entire icemaker.
The motor modular is bad and requires changing (part number 8201515)if when you do this ice still will not dump. If it disposes but the feeler arm will certainly not raise up and after that back down see to it the feel arm hasn't jumped out of place, it needs to be placed in a hole on the back of the icemaker head.
No- If there is no ice in the mold take that jumper wire and place one end in the hole marked V and the other end in the hole marked L just long enough to see if water gets in the icemaker then remove it. This need to power up the water valve and water must enter the icemaker.
If when you do this water doesn't get in the icemaker, look inside television that gets in the back of the icemaker to bring water to it and see if it is stopped up with ice. Clean all the ice out of it and replace the water inlet valve if so eliminate it. If its not stopped up with ice, replace the water inlet valve (offered the supply of water from your house plumbing is working).
If when you do this water does enter the icemaker take that jumper wire and place one end in the hole significant T and the other in the hole marked H for about 15 seconds. When you do this, the icemaker must go through the cycle, the feeler arm should raise up and the water ought to enter the icemaker. , if all of this happens the thermostat inside the icemaker is bad (supplied the temperature level inside the freezer is ok).. If the thermostat is bad, note that I recommend altering the entire icemaker.
If it does go through the cycle and run water in and the feeler arm does not raise up and afterwards back down ensure the feel arm hasn't jumped out of place, it should be inserted in a hole on the back of the icemaker head.
- Disconnect the refrigerator for at least 30 seconds.
- Place the jumper from T to H and close the door. Keep in mind to be certin that the jumper stays in place or the test will fail.
- After the jumper is in location plug the refrigerator back in and wait 15 seconds or so before opening the freezer door.
Using the jumper wire on the designs with the ice-bin mounted in the door is not as effective just like designs that have the ice-bin mounted in the freezer compartment such as older side-by-side designs and all top freezers. It is mainly made use of simply the make the icemaker cycle to see exactly what it is doing or not doing.
However prior to you attempt to utilize any jumper on these designs you require to examine the optics as explained listed below.
Whirlpool Icemaker Repair-Optics Test
In this area of this Whirlpool icemaker repair guide I will stroll you though identifying the ice level optics on Whirlpool refrigerators with the ice-bin mounted in the door. The optics is simply two sensing units, one on each side of the freezer and when ice gets high enough to block the sensing units it cuts the icemaker off.
1. Look and open the freezer on the right-hand side and you must see a blinking light.
- If the light is blinking twice then off for one second repeatedly something is obstructing the optics, which is regular due to the fact that when you open the door, a flapper springs out to block the optics so that the icemaker will not dispose when the door is open. Proceed to step 2.
- if there is no light the icemaker is either in the harvest mode or the optics are bad and need changing.. To inspect this, press in on the flapper to unblock the optics. If when you do this the light flashes when every second the icemaker is in the harvest mode and if not the optics are bad.
2. Next press in on the flapper to unblock the optics.
- If the light blinks as soon as followed by a one 2nd delay, the optics are bad and requires changing.
- if the light is on continually the optics are working effectively.
- If the light is still blinking the same as prior to you pressed the flap the optics are bad.
If the optics passes the test the problem is the icemaker or the water valve. To check this very first, disconnect power from the fridge then slide the icemaker out without disconnecting it and get rid of the cover off the front of the icemaker. Take a six-inch piece of insulted wire and skin about 1/2 inch on each end. Location one end of the jumper wire in the hole significant H and the other end in the hole marked T. Next close the door to line up the optics and reconnect power. Wait 5 seconds then open the icemaker and the door need to have begun the cycle if not change the motor module (part number 8201515). If the icemaker finishes no water and the cycle gets in the icemaker the water valve is bad and needs replacing.
I hope this whirlpool icemaker repair guide helped you in fixing your icemaker.